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Information on fly rod kits for fly fishing.
Fly Rod Kits There is another approach to the problem of getting just the right rod for your angling. Several firms are presently making rod kits which the angler is supposed to put together to make his own rod. These kits are available for spinning rods, bait casting rods, and fly rods. Materials for finished rods in a variety of lengths and actions are also available. Maybe you, like myself, have been on the verge of buying such a kit but have questioned your ability to put it together. Just remembering how bumble-fingered I am has prevented me from attempting the job. Finally I purchased a fly rod kit. When it arrived and I opened it up, I confess I had plenty of skepticism about my ability to put all those pieces together into an acceptable fly rod. There just seemed to be too much painstaking detail for someone not gifted with manual dexterity. But there was an instruction pamphlet with the kit. Taking each item as instructed, and not looking forward to any thing beyond getting this item fitted properly, I started to work on my fly rod. The project called for a fly rod with a dry-fly action, length 7 1/2 feet, with a finished weight of 4 ounces. I started work ing on the reel seat, placing the round cork disks on the butt section of bamboo, sanding each disk down to a tight fit, then carefully gjuing them as I worked. From this I turned to the actual grip. Tliese two Jobs appeared to be the most difficult and complicated. I thought that if I didn't go wrong here, seating the ferrules and winding guides and putting on the tips would be comparatively easy. Now, after finishing the rod, following those instructions to the letter, I find myself hard put to single out any one part of the task which wasn't very easily accomplished. The unfinished grip afforded me a chance to work out my own ideas about proper length and shape. The ovals of cork were easily slipped on after the reel seat was in place. Each oval was glued and forced down tightly in place. After all these ovals are in place, and the glue has had time to dry, any grip shape can be had by careful sandpapering. If you care for the Payne style grip, or the Hardy, Philippe, Half Wells, or Full Wells grip, they are all illustrated in the instructions. I decided on a fairly large, hand-filling Half WeHs grip. It is the one I find the least tiring during a day's casting. But a note of warn ing should be injected here. No matter what type of grip you decide upon, leave it plenty large in thickness. Test it by fishing a day. Take your sandpaper on the stream with you and work out the problem there. Go cautiously and sandpaper down very frugally. Don't be afraid to deviate from standard grips, if you find such deviation gives you more comfort, accuracy, and delicacy in casting. It is surprising how often a little change in grip shape will ease the ache of casting all day with a fly rod, especially if you are using dry flies. The proper fit of a grip must take into consideration the length as well as other dimensions, so give careful consideration to this phase of the task. In making a fly rod from one of these kits, grip length is obtained by adding the right number of cork ovals. It is always better to have the grip a bit longer than what you think you require, for it is sometimes restful to move the casting hand back ward or forward on the grip for a few casts. A much neater job of guide winding can be obtained if you use a small "rod winding machine." These can be bought from the same source as the rod kits, and are very inexpensive. Proper winding thread tension is easily maintained with it, making the finished job much more professional in appearance. It will also find employment when you are rewinding other fishing rods. The place where you must go slow and carefully in this rod making is in varnishing and finishing, but if you follow instructions you will have no difficulty. Just remember that the casting quality of a good rod can be killed by a too liberal application of varnish. Decide what shade of browntone you want for your rod, then stain it before attempting to varnish. The problem of getting just the right color is simple. Rod stain can be wiped off with a cloth after drying, so the best method is to apply a generous amount, then carefully wipe the bamboo until you arrive at the shade you like. Some anglers prefer the natural bamboo color, and varnish their rods without staining. It is a matter of individual preference, really, for the color has nothing to do with the casting qualities. After applying the stain and obtaining the proper shade, the varnishing begins. Forget about brushes. Use either a cotton, lint free cloth to apply the varnish, or better yet, use your fingers. Care fully smooth on a very thin application of varnish. Let the rod dry for at least twenty-four hours, longer if necessary to get a dry, flint like finish. Then apply another coating. The instructions with my kit called for three very light coats of varnish. I found these gave my rod a very nice finish, comparing favorably with rods of mine in the $150 price range. There are two questions which anglers ask in connection with these rod kits. What price must one pay to get a quality kit, some thing which will produce a superior rod? This kit I used cost $78.95. How much time does it take? My work sheet showed that I spent a total of eight hours to complete my fly rod. This, of course, was divided into periods of a half hour or so. And it didn't include the time I waited for glue to set, and for varnish to dry. The completed rod felt nice in my hands, but beauty is as beauty does! I had those brushy trout streams in mind, where rainbows like a dry fly if it is delicately presented. I wanted something which would drop a size 14 dry fly at 50 feet. More important, I wanted to ease that fly on the water without disturbance at 20 to 25 feet I wanted a rod which would pick that fly off the surface, leaving only a dimple of water to show this had been achieved. All The proper line for short casts, such as this, is not the best choice for 50to 60-foot casts.
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